How to Build a Regenerative Herb Garden
Building a medicinal herb garden shouldn't mean signing up for endless weeding, constant watering, and chemical inputs. At Sacred Plant Co's I·M·POSSIBLE Farm in Fruita, Colorado, we've refined the Terra Sancta Regenerative System, a practical, step-by-step approach inspired by Richard Perkins and powered by Korean Natural Farming that eliminates 90% of traditional garden maintenance. This isn't theory. This is the exact system we use to grow potent medicinal herbs in one of North America's harshest climates: a high-altitude mountain desert with extreme temperature swings, intense UV exposure, and minimal rainfall.
The Terra Sancta System achieves what most home herb gardens struggle with: minimal weeding (wood chip pathways smother weeds), zero chemicals (beneficial bacteria do the work), drought tolerance (heavy mulch retains moisture), and increasing soil fertility every season (instead of depleting it). This guide provides the complete implementation blueprint, materials list, step-by-step installation, seasonal maintenance protocols, and the exact KNF inputs we use. By the end of this article, you'll have everything needed to build a regenerative herb garden that requires less work every year while producing more potent medicine.
Understanding the Terra Sancta System: Four Core Principles
Before digging, you need to understand WHY this system works. The Terra Sancta Regenerative System rests on four non-negotiable principles that work synergistically. Skip any one, and you compromise the whole system.
Principle 1: Heavy Mulch Eliminates Weeding
Bare soil invites weeds. The first principle establishes a permanent mulch barrier that smothers weed seeds while building soil organic matter. We use 4-5 inches of wood chips in pathways and 4-5 inches of finished compost in the planting beds. This isn't decorative—it's functional infrastructure.
The mulch serves triple duty: weed suppression, moisture retention (reducing irrigation needs by 50%), and slow-release carbon feeding for soil fungi. As wood chips decompose over 2-3 years, they transform into rich humus that builds soil structure. You're not fighting weeds—you're building soil while weeds are physically blocked.
Principle 2: Wood Chip Pathways Create Permanent Infrastructure
Traditional gardens waste space on compacted soil paths that grow weeds and require constant maintenance. Terra Sancta gardens use permanent wood chip pathways that define growing zones, provide clean access in all weather, and transform into fertile soil over time. These aren't temporary—once established, pathways last 5+ years with minimal topping-up.
We lay pathways 18-24 inches wide—enough for comfortable walking and wheelbarrow access. The pathway network defines planting beds (typically 3-4 feet wide for easy reach from both sides) and creates the garden's permanent structure. You'll never rototill or reshape these beds. The system is built once and maintained indefinitely.
Principle 3: Beneficial Bacteria Replace Chemicals
Conventional gardens depend on external inputs: fertilizers for nutrition, pesticides for pests, fungicides for disease. The Terra Sancta System cultivates beneficial microbial populations that provide these functions naturally through Korean Natural Farming inputs, particularly LABS (Lactic Acid Bacteria Serum).
We inoculate soil with LABS at garden establishment and reapply quarterly. These bacteria establish permanent populations that multiply naturally when fed organic matter (mulch, plant residues). The garden becomes a self-regulating ecosystem where beneficial organisms out-compete pests and pathogens without any chemical intervention.
Principle 4: Seasonal KNF Inputs Drive Plant Health
While soil bacteria handle baseline fertility, medicinal herbs benefit from targeted nutrition during key growth phases. We use five core Korean Natural Farming inputs applied at specific times: FPJ for vegetative growth, FFJ for flowering, OHN for pest resistance, WSC for structural strength, and LABS for continuous soil health.
These aren't complicated. Each input dilutes 1:500 to 1:1000 and applies as foliar spray or soil drench. One quart of concentrate provides 500-1000 gallons of diluted solution—enough for a home garden for an entire season. The cost per application is pennies, the results are dramatic, and the system is completely sustainable.
Deep Dive Reading: Regenerative Farming Innovations at I·M·POSSIBLE Farm | Revolutionize Your Composting with LABS | Ultimate Guide to Korean Natural Farming
Step 1: Site Selection and Initial Preparation (Week 1)
Site selection determines 70% of your garden's success. Medicinal herbs require 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily and good drainage. You cannot fix poor drainage with amendments—water must percolate, not pool.
What You'll Do:
1. Choose Your Location
Select the sunniest spot in your yard. Use a sun calculator app or observe the area for a full day, marking shaded zones. Avoid areas under tree drip lines or next to buildings that block afternoon sun.
2. Test Drainage
Dig a 12-inch deep hole, fill with water, let drain completely. Refill and time how long it takes to drain. Good drainage = water gone in 4-6 hours. Poor drainage = standing water after 12+ hours (choose a different site or build raised beds).
3. Mark Your Layout
Use spray paint or stakes and string to mark pathways first (not beds). Pathways are 18-24 inches wide. Beds are 3-4 feet wide (reachable from both sides without stepping on soil). A 10×20 foot garden typically has three 3-foot beds with two pathways.
4. Clear Existing Vegetation
Mow or weed-whack everything to ground level. You do NOT need to remove roots or till. Living roots will die when smothered by cardboard and mulch.
Materials Needed for Step 1:
- Spray paint or marking flags
- Measuring tape (50-100 feet)
- Stakes and string for layout
- Mower or weed-whacker
Time Investment: 2-4 hours for a 200 square foot garden
Step 2: Installing the Mulch Barrier System (Week 1-2)
This step creates the weed-blocking foundation and establishes permanent pathways. Done correctly, you'll never need to redo this.
What You'll Do:
1. Layer Cardboard in Pathways
Lay cardboard sheets (minimum 1/8 inch thick—appliance boxes work well) in all pathway zones, overlapping by 6 inches at seams. Remove tape and staples. Water thoroughly until saturated.
2. Apply Pathway Wood Chips
Immediately cover cardboard with 4-5 inches of wood chips (hardwood or mixed—avoid fresh cedar or walnut). Compact gently by walking on chips. Water again to settle.
3. Edge Your Beds (Optional but Recommended)
Install simple landscape edging (plastic, metal, or wood boards) along bed perimeters to prevent wood chip migration. Not critical but makes maintenance easier.
4. Cardboard the Growing Beds
Lay cardboard over entire bed surfaces, overlapping seams. Punch holes every 12 inches for planting. Water thoroughly.
5. Apply Growing Bed Mulch
Cover bed cardboard with 4-5 inches of compost or aged manure (if available) or straw/hay (second choice). This provides initial fertility while smothering weeds.
Materials Needed for Step 2:
- Cardboard sheets: 200-300 sq ft for a 200 sq ft garden (double-layer pathways)
- Wood chips: ~1.5 cubic yards per 100 sq ft of pathways (4-5 inch depth)
- Compost/aged manure: ~1.5 cubic yards per 100 sq ft of beds (4-5 inch depth)
- Landscape edging (optional): linear feet = bed perimeter
Where to Source Materials: Call local tree services for free wood chip delivery (they need to dump it somewhere). Check Craigslist or ChipDrop.com. Buy compost in bulk from landscape suppliers—much cheaper than bags.
Time Investment: 4-8 hours for a 200 square foot garden
LABS - Lactic Acid Bacteria Serum
Before planting, inoculate your newly prepared beds with LABS to establish beneficial bacterial populations. Dilute 1:1000 (1 oz per 8 gallons water) and drench the entire bed surface. LABS will accelerate cardboard decomposition, jump-start nutrient cycling, and suppress weed seeds that survive the cardboard barrier. This initial inoculation sets the microbial foundation for your entire system.
Shop LABSStep 3: Soil Inoculation and Planting (Week 2-3)
With infrastructure in place, we establish the living biology that makes the system self-regulating and plant the first herbs.
What You'll Do:
1. First LABS Application
Mix 1 oz LABS per 8 gallons water (1:1000 dilution). Use a watering can or backpack sprayer to thoroughly drench all bed surfaces. Apply 1 gallon of diluted solution per 10 square feet. Wait 24-48 hours before planting.
2. Plant Your First Herbs
Cut X-shaped slits through cardboard at desired spacing (12-18 inches for most herbs). Pull cardboard flaps back, dig a planting hole through underlying soil. Amend each hole with handful of compost. Plant transplants, firm soil, water thoroughly.
3. Mulch Around Plants
Pull cardboard flaps back around plant stems (leave 2-inch gap at stem). Add additional straw or leaf mulch around each plant to maintain 4-5 inch total depth.
4. Mark Plant Locations
Use plant labels or stakes to mark what you planted where. Mulch hides everything—you'll forget by next week.
Best Herbs for Terra Sancta System Beginners:
Perennials (Plant Once, Harvest for Years):
- Echinacea (Echinacea purpurea) - Immune support, attracts pollinators
- Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis) - Calming herb, vigorous grower
- Sage (Salvia officinalis) - Antimicrobial, drought-tolerant
- Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) - Ground cover, low-maintenance
- Chamomile (Matricaria recutita) - Self-seeds freely
Annuals (Replant Yearly but High-Yield):
- Calendula (Calendula officinalis) - Continuous bloomer, self-seeds
- Holy Basil/Tulsi (Ocimum tenuiflorum) - Adaptogen, pest deterrent
- German Chamomile (Matricaria recutita) - Produces heavily
Planting Spacing: 12 inches for small herbs (thyme, chamomile), 18 inches for medium herbs (basil, calendula), 24 inches for large perennials (echinacea, lemon balm). When in doubt, space wider—overcrowding invites disease.
Time Investment: 2-3 hours for a 200 square foot garden (20-30 plants)
FPJ - Fermented Plant Juice
Two weeks after planting, begin weekly FPJ applications to stimulate vigorous vegetative growth. Dilute 1:500 (2.5 oz per 8 gallons) and apply as foliar spray in early morning or late evening. FPJ contains natural growth hormones that accelerate leaf production—essential for establishing strong herb plants that can sustain repeated harvesting. Continue weekly applications through first 6-8 weeks of growth.
Shop FPJStep 4: Establishment Phase - First 60 Days
The first two months determine whether your system thrives or struggles. This phase focuses on supporting root establishment, managing initial weeds, and building soil biology.
What You'll Do:
Weeks 1-2 After Planting:
- Water daily for first week (1 inch per week total—adjust for rain)
- Hand-pull any weeds emerging through cardboard (will be minimal)
- Monitor for transplant shock (wilting, yellowing)
- Apply diluted LABS as soil drench (1:1000) if plants look stressed
Weeks 3-4:
- Begin FPJ foliar applications (weekly, 1:500 dilution)
- Reduce watering to 2-3x per week as roots establish
- Add mulch around any plants where cardboard has decomposed
- Check pathways—add more wood chips if settling exposes cardboard
Weeks 5-8:
- Continue weekly FPJ applications until flowering begins
- Switch to FFJ (1:500) when flower buds appear
- Monitor for pests—spray OHN (1:500) at first sign
- Harvest first leaves/flowers (never more than 1/3 of plant)
Common First-Season Challenges:
Challenge: Cardboard exposed in pathways
Solution: Add more wood chips. Initial settling is normal. Top up to maintain 6-inch depth.
Challenge: Weeds growing through mulch
Solution: Check mulch depth—should be 4-5 inches minimum. Add more organic mulch around problem areas. Hand-pull visible weeds before they seed.
Challenge: Herbs growing slowly
Solution: Increase FPJ frequency to twice weekly. Apply LABS soil drench to boost nutrient availability. Check soil moisture—should be consistently moist but not waterlogged.
Challenge: Yellowing leaves
Solution: Apply WSC foliar spray (1:1000 dilution) to provide calcium. May indicate insufficient fertility—add compost around base of affected plants.
FFJ - Fermented Fruit Juice
When flower buds form (typically 6-8 weeks after planting), switch from FPJ to FFJ to maximize bloom quality and essential oil production. Dilute 1:500 and apply as foliar spray twice weekly during flowering. FFJ provides the phosphorus and potassium that drive secondary metabolite production—this is what makes your medicinal herbs actually medicinal. Continue through harvest season.
Shop FFJStep 5: Growing Season Management (Months 2-6)
Once established, the Terra Sancta System requires minimal intervention. Your maintenance time drops to 30-60 minutes per week for a 200 square foot garden.
Monthly Maintenance Calendar:
Every Week:
- Inspect for pests (5 minutes)
- Foliar spray (FPJ or FFJ depending on growth stage, 15 minutes)
- Harvest as needed (timing varies)
- Quick weed patrol—pull any visible weeds before they seed (5-10 minutes)
Once Per Month:
- LABS soil drench (1:1000 dilution, 20 minutes)
- Pathway inspection—add wood chips to low spots
- Mulch check—add organic mulch around plants if depth falls below 3 inches
- Plant health assessment—yellow leaves, stunted growth, disease signs
Mid-Season (Month 3):
- Side-dress perennials with 1-2 inches compost
- Refresh mulch around annuals that have spread
- Prune dead/diseased material
- Consider succession planting annuals for continuous harvest
Pest Management Through OHN
The Terra Sancta System prevents most pest problems through plant vigor and beneficial insect habitat. When issues arise, OHN provides effective natural control without chemicals.
Aphids, whiteflies, or spider mites: Mix OHN 1:500 (2.5 oz per 8 gallons). Add 1 teaspoon mild liquid soap as surfactant. Spray entire plant, focusing on leaf undersides. Repeat every 3-4 days until control achieved.
Fungal diseases (powdery mildew, leaf spots): Mix OHN 1:500 plus WSC 1:1000 in same spray. Apply weekly as preventative or twice weekly for active infections. The herbal compounds in OHN plus calcium in WSC create hostile environment for fungal growth.
Caterpillars or beetles: OHN works primarily as deterrent, not insecticide. Mix 1:500 and spray weekly. Hand-pick visible insects. Introduce beneficial predators (praying mantis, ladybugs) for long-term control.
OHN - Oriental Herbal Nutrient
OHN provides dual functionality: foliar nutrition that strengthens plant metabolism PLUS aromatic pest confusion through garlic, ginger, and herbal essential oils. University research demonstrates OHN's effectiveness as natural pest deterrent. Apply 1:500 dilution weekly during growing season as preventative. At first sign of pest pressure, increase to twice-weekly applications. No chemical pesticides needed.
Shop OHNStep 6: Fall Preparation and Season Extension (Months 6-7)
As growing season winds down, we prepare the system for winter dormancy while maximizing final harvests and building soil for next year.
What You'll Do:
6-8 Weeks Before First Frost:
- Stop nitrogen-heavy inputs (FPJ) to harden plants for winter
- Continue FFJ on late-season flowers
- Harvest aggressively—take up to 50% of perennial herb mass
- Allow some annuals to go to seed for next year (calendula, chamomile)
4 Weeks Before First Frost:
- Heavy mulch application: Add 2-4 inches fresh organic mulch around all perennials
- Final LABS drench (1:1000) to support winter soil biology
- Plant garlic and other fall herbs if desired
- Note which annuals to replant next spring
After First Frost:
- Cut annual herbs to ground level—leave roots and stalks in place
- Do NOT remove perennial above-ground material until spring
- Apply 4-5 inch layer of leaves or straw over entire bed surface
- Top up pathway wood chips to 8-inch depth for winter insulation
Cold Frame Extension (Optional)
In Zones 5-7, simple cold frames extend harvest 6-8 weeks into winter. Build a basic frame: 2×4 lumber (4-foot walls) + old windows or clear corrugated plastic panels. Place over bed sections in October. Harvest cold-hardy herbs (thyme, sage, oregano, parsley) through November-December.
Step 7: Spring Reactivation (Year 2 and Beyond)
Here's where the system rewards you. Year 2 maintenance is half the work of Year 1, with double the production.
Early Spring Reactivation (When Soil Hits 50°F):
1. Remove Winter Mulch
Pull back heavy leaf or straw mulch from perennial crowns (leave 2-inch layer). Compost or add to pathways. Perennials need air circulation to break dormancy.
2. First LABS Application of Season
Drench entire garden with LABS 1:1000 as soon as you can work the soil. This wakes up dormant bacteria and kick-starts nutrient cycling.
3. Prune Dead Material
Cut perennial herb stalks to 2-3 inches above ground. Leave in place as surface mulch or add to pathways.
4. Pathway Maintenance
Inspect pathways—add 2-3 inches fresh wood chips to maintain depth. Chips decompose fastest at bottom layer (which is now feeding your beds).
5. Bed Refreshing
Add 1-2 inches compost or aged manure around established perennials. Not strictly necessary (system generates own fertility) but boosts production.
6. Replant Annuals
Punch through mulch and plant annual herbs (calendula, basil, etc.) in same locations as previous year. No new cardboard needed—you're planting into established beds.
What's Different in Year 2:
- 90% less weeding: Perennial herb canopy shades out weeds. Decomposed cardboard leaves clean soil. Pathways are established.
- 50% less watering: Deep roots access subsoil moisture. Improved soil structure holds water. Established mulch layer maintains humidity.
- Zero tilling/digging: Never rework beds. Soil structure improves every year from decomposing mulch and living roots.
- Triple the harvest: Perennials reach mature size. Soil fertility increases. Plants face less stress.
WSC - Water Soluble Calcium
Apply WSC in early spring to strengthen cell walls and improve drought tolerance as herbs break dormancy. Dilute 1:1000 and spray foliage every 2 weeks during rapid spring growth. Calcium deficiency causes weak stems, poor flowering, and increased disease susceptibility. WSC provides immediately bioavailable calcium that prevents these issues while supporting vigorous spring emergence.
Shop WSCComplete First-Year Cost Breakdown
Building a Terra Sancta System requires upfront investment but saves dramatically over time compared to conventional gardening. Here's real cost breakdown for a 200 square foot (10×20 foot) garden:
Infrastructure (One-Time Costs):
- Wood chips (1.5 cubic yards): $0-75 (free from tree services or $50/yard from landscape suppliers)
- Cardboard (200 sq ft): $0 (appliance stores, recycling centers)
- Compost (0.5 cubic yards): $25-40
- Landscape edging (optional, 60 linear feet): $40-80
- Total Infrastructure: $65-195
KNF Inputs (Annual Costs—Year 1):
- LABS - 1 quart: $19.99 (lasts full season)
- FPJ - 8 oz: $19.99 (lasts 8-10 weeks)
- FFJ - 8 oz: $19.99 (lasts flowering season)
- OHN - 1 quart: $36.99 (lasts full season)
- WSC - 8 oz: $13.99 (lasts full season)
- Total KNF Inputs: $110.95
OR Buy the Complete System:
Plants (Annual Costs—Year 1):
- 20-30 herb transplants at $3-8 each: $80-200
- OR grow from seed: $15-30 for full season
Tools (If Not Already Owned):
- Watering can or hose: $15-50
- Hand pruners: $15-25
- Spray bottle or small pump sprayer: $10-30
- Total Tools: $40-105
TOTAL FIRST-YEAR INVESTMENT: $295-600 for 200 sq ft garden
Year 2+ Costs (Dramatically Lower):
- KNF inputs (same products, same cost): ~$110
- Annual herb replants: $15-30 (seed) or $50-100 (transplants)
- Pathway wood chip top-up (1-2 bags): $10-20
- Optional compost refresh: $15-25
- TOTAL YEAR 2+: $150-255 annually
Compare to conventional herb garden ongoing costs: fertilizer ($50-100/year), pesticides ($40-80/year), herbicides ($30-60/year), constant transplant replacement ($100-200/year), soil amendments ($40-80/year), plus 10-15 hours per month maintenance labor. The Terra Sancta System costs LESS and requires 80% less time after Year 1.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Problem: Herbs dying in first month
Diagnosis: Transplant shock, insufficient water, or drainage problems
Solution: Water daily for first 2 weeks (not weekly). Check drainage—if standing water persists 12+ hours after rain, consider raised beds. Apply diluted LABS (1:1000) as root drench to support recovery.
Problem: Weeds overtaking beds despite mulch
Diagnosis: Insufficient mulch depth or gaps in cardboard layer
Solution: Check mulch depth with ruler—should be minimum 3 inches year-round. Add more organic mulch (straw, leaves, grass clippings) to problem areas. Next year, use double-layer cardboard with better overlap.
Problem: Yellow leaves with green veins (chlorosis)
Diagnosis: Calcium or iron deficiency
Solution: Immediate foliar spray of WSC (1:1000 dilution). Apply weekly for 3-4 weeks. Add compost around plant base. In future, include regular WSC applications in spring maintenance.
Problem: Fungal diseases despite OHN applications
Diagnosis: Overhead watering, excessive plant density, or high humidity
Solution: Water soil only, not foliage. Increase air circulation—prune overcrowded plants. Combine OHN + WSC (both at label rates) in single spray—calcium strengthens cell walls against fungal penetration.
Problem: Poor flowering or no essential oil scent
Diagnosis: Too much nitrogen (FPJ), insufficient phosphorus/potassium, or shade
Solution: Stop FPJ applications. Switch to FFJ exclusively during bud formation and flowering. Ensure 6-8 hours direct sun. Stress plants slightly by reducing water once established—mild drought increases essential oil production.
Problem: Wood chips in pathways harboring pests
Diagnosis: Overly moist conditions or fresh green wood chips
Solution: Use aged/decomposed wood chips (brown, not fresh-cut green). Improve pathway drainage. Apply diluted LABS to pathways monthly—beneficial bacteria suppress pest eggs and larvae.
More Problem-Solving Resources: Unlocking the Potential of OHN in Gardening | The Remarkable Benefits of LABS
Frequently Asked Questions
How long before the system becomes "low-maintenance"?
Most gardeners see dramatic maintenance reduction by end of Year 1 (after establishment phase). By Year 2, weekly maintenance drops to 30-60 minutes for a 200 sq ft garden. Perennial herbs reach full size, mulch layers establish, pathways stabilize, and beneficial soil biology self-regulates. The system actually requires LESS work each subsequent year as woody perennials mature and soil improves.
Can I build this system on clay or sandy soil?
Yes—the Terra Sancta System actually works BETTER on problem soils than conventional methods. Clay benefits from heavy mulch breaking up compaction without tilling. Sand benefits from organic matter improving water retention. The no-till approach + continuous organic matter addition gradually transforms any soil type. We've successfully implemented this system on hardpan clay and pure sand dunes in Colorado. Give it 2-3 years—improvement is dramatic.
Do I need to make my own KNF inputs or can I buy them?
Both options work. Purists enjoy making LABS, FPJ, and other inputs from scratch (satisfying but time-consuming). Most home gardeners prefer purchasing ready-made inputs for consistency and convenience. We provide both: detailed DIY instructions in our KNF guide plus high-quality pre-made products. One quart of purchased LABS costs $19.99 and lasts a full season for average home garden—reasonable investment for reliable results.
What if I don't have access to free wood chips?
Contact local tree service companies—they need to dump chips somewhere and often deliver for free within 20-mile radius. Sign up for ChipDrop.com (connects tree services with gardeners needing mulch). As last resort, purchase bagged wood chips from garden centers (~$4 per 2 cubic foot bag). You'll need 10-15 bags for 100 sq ft of pathways at $40-60 total. Still cheaper than annual fertilizer/pesticide costs in conventional gardens.
Can I grow vegetables in this system or only herbs?
The Terra Sancta System works exceptionally well for vegetables—we grow tomatoes, peppers, squash, and leafy greens using identical methods. The difference: vegetables require higher fertility than herbs, so increase compost applications and FPJ/FFJ frequency. Heavy feeders (tomatoes, squash) benefit from heavier initial compost layer (5-6 inches vs 4-5 inches) and bi-weekly KNF inputs vs weekly. Otherwise, same infrastructure, same principles.
How do I prevent wood chips from contaminating growing beds?
Landscape edging (even simple 1×4 boards laid on edge) creates physical barrier between pathways and beds. Not strictly necessary—wood chips compact and stay in place unless kicked around. If chips do migrate into beds, simply rake them back into pathways. As chips decompose (bottom-up over 2-3 years), they actually IMPROVE bed fertility. The "contamination" is beneficial—you're walking on future topsoil.
What happens if I miss KNF applications or apply irregularly?
The system is forgiving. KNF inputs optimize plant performance but aren't life-support. Miss a week of FPJ? Plants grow slightly slower. Skip OHN? Increased pest vulnerability but not catastrophic. The permanent infrastructure (mulch, soil biology, perennial plants) maintains baseline function even with inconsistent inputs. That said, consistent application schedules produce dramatically better results—set phone reminders or create a simple calendar.
Can I start this system mid-season or should I wait until spring?
You CAN start mid-season but results are better starting in early spring. Mid-season start: install infrastructure (pathways, cardboard, mulch) immediately but wait 4-6 weeks before planting to allow cardboard to decompose and LABS to establish. Plant nursery transplants rather than seeds for faster establishment. Spring start: full season to establish, better root development, lower stress on plants. If starting mid-summer, focus on heat-tolerant perennials (sage, thyme, oregano) that establish quickly.
Important Safety Information
Pregnancy and Nursing: Many medicinal herbs are contraindicated during pregnancy and lactation. Consult qualified healthcare practitioners before using herbs medicinally if pregnant, nursing, or planning pregnancy. Growing herbs is generally safe; consuming them requires professional guidance.
Allergic Reactions: Individuals with plant family allergies may react to related herbs. Always test new herbs in small quantities. Wear gloves when handling known allergens.
Proper Identification: Ensure positive identification before consuming ANY plant material. Several toxic species resemble common medicinal herbs. When in doubt, consult experienced herbalists or reference multiple authoritative field guides.
Soil Safety: If building near old buildings (pre-1978), test soil for lead contamination before growing edible/medicinal herbs. Lead persists in soil from old paint. Testing costs $20-40 through university extension services.
KNF Input Safety: All Sacred Plant Co KNF inputs are non-toxic and safe for food crops when used at labeled dilutions. Store concentrates away from children and pets. Avoid direct skin contact with undiluted OHN (contains garlic and hot pepper extracts). Wear gloves when mixing and applying.
Resources and References
- Chalker-Scott, L. (2007). "Impact of mulches on landscape plants and the environment." Washington State University Extension, EB1239E. Available: https://pubs.extension.wsu.edu/
- Higa, T. & Parr, J.F. (1994). "Beneficial and Effective Microorganisms for a Sustainable Agriculture and Environment." International Nature Farming Research Center, Atami, Japan.
- Cho, H. (2010). Korean Natural Farming: Inputs and Applications. Janong Natural Farming Institute, South Korea.
- Crews, T.E. & Peoples, M.B. (2004). "Legume versus fertilizer sources of nitrogen: ecological tradeoffs and human needs." Agriculture, Ecosystems & Environment, 102(3): 279-297.
- Rasse, D.P., et al. (2005). "Is soil carbon mostly root carbon? Mechanisms for a specific stabilization." Plant and Soil, 269(1): 341-356.
- University of Kentucky Department of Horticulture. (2018). "Oriental Herbal Nutrient (OHN) efficacy trial on brassica crops." Internal research report.
- Jury, W.A. & Horton, R. (2004). Soil Physics, 6th Edition. John Wiley & Sons. ISBN 978-0471059745.
- Landis, D.A., et al. (2000). "Habitat management to conserve natural enemies of arthropod pests in agriculture." Annual Review of Entomology, 45: 175-201.
