How to Grow Stinging Nettle from Seed: A Regenerative Beginner's Guide
Last Updated: May 2026
The vibrant, deep green canopy of our mature nettle stand signals optimal nitrogen cycling driven by active soil microbiology.
Stinging nettle (Urtica dioica) is one of the most quietly important herbs in human history. Bronze Age communities wove nettle fibers into textiles before flax was widely cultivated. European folk healers prized it as a spring tonic for centuries. Native American traditions used it for fiber, food, and medicine. Ayurveda calls it Bichu Buti and includes it in formulas for joint comfort and seasonal balance. Then the modern garden treated it as a weed to be ripped out, and a deep body of growing intelligence got buried under a layer of rototiller dust.
This guide brings that intelligence back. We will walk you through starting nettle from seed in a regenerative, biologically grounded way, the same way we do it on our farm. Nettle's medicinal value is not just genetic. It is co-produced by the plant and the soil community it partners with. The minerals, chlorophyll, silica, sulfur compounds, and nutritive flavonoids that make nettle a tonic herb are concentrated dramatically when the plant grows in living, microbially active soil. Sterile potting mix and bagged fertilizer give you nettle. Living soil gives you medicine. You can see the science behind our methods on our research page.
What You'll Learn in This Guide
- Why nettle thrives in nitrogen-rich, biologically active soil and how to build it without synthetic fertilizers
- Exactly when, how deep, and at what soil temperature to sow nettle seed for the highest germination rate
- How to handle nettle seedlings and adult plants without getting stung (the 30-second technique that solves it)
- The biological reason nettle responds dramatically to weekly fermented plant juice (FPJ) applications
- How to space, thin, and contain a nettle patch so it nourishes you without taking over your garden
- What a Year 1, Year 3, and Year 5 nettle stand actually looks like, with real harvest data from our farm
- How to recognize a premium nettle harvest by sight, smell, and touch, no lab required
- When to start your own nettle patch versus when to source ethically dried nettle for medicine right now
Understanding Stinging Nettle's Natural Lifecycle
Stinging nettle is a hardy herbaceous perennial that thrives in nitrogen-rich, partially shaded, moist soils across temperate climates worldwide. Understanding where nettle wants to grow is the single biggest predictor of seed-starting success. The plant evolved as a colonizer of disturbed, fertile ground: woodland edges, riparian floodplains, old livestock corrals, and the mineral-rich margins of human settlements where decomposing organic matter accumulated. That preference is encoded in everything from its seed-germination requirements to its rhizome behavior.
Nettle seed is light-dependent for germination. Seeds need to be on the soil surface or barely pressed in, where they can detect daylight and warmth before they break dormancy. They also need consistent moisture, mild warmth (around 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit), and 14 to 21 days of patient watering before you see green. These conditions mimic the natural seed bed of a forest edge in late spring after a period of decomposed leaf-litter buildup.
Once established, nettle becomes a perennial that returns from rhizomes (underground stems) every spring, expanding its colony year by year. The first season is a slow biomass build. By Year 3, a healthy stand is producing serious medicinal yields. By Year 5, the patch is largely self-maintaining, requiring far less input than your annual vegetable beds. The plant also flowers and produces seed in its second and subsequent seasons, allowing both clonal expansion (rhizome) and genetic spread (seed) at the same time. This dual strategy is why a well-sited nettle patch can outlive the gardener who planted it.
Nettle is dioecious, meaning male and female flowers form on separate plants. For medicinal harvest you do not need to worry about this; you are after the leaves, not the seeds. But if you are letting your patch self-seed for expansion, plant a small group of at least 4 to 6 starts so both sexes are likely represented.
Preparing Soil for Regenerative Seed-Starting
Nettle is one of the most reliable indicator plants of high-nitrogen, biologically rich soil, which means soil prep is less about correcting a deficit and more about building a microbial community that can keep up with the plant's appetite. Conventional advice tells you to amend with synthetic nitrogen. We do the opposite. We feed the soil's living community and let those microbes feed the nettle on demand, in the chemical forms the plant can actually use without scorching its roots or producing soft, pest-vulnerable tissue.
For seed-starting trays, skip sterile commercial potting mix. Sterile media starves seedlings of the microbial relationships nettle expects from day one. Instead, build a 50/50 mix of finished compost and a coarser drainage component (perlite, coir, or aged wood-chip fines). Compost from a real soil ecosystem brings in fungi, bacteria, and protozoa that establish the rhizosphere quickly. The drainage component prevents the dense, waterlogged conditions that cause damping-off in young nettle seedlings.
For the eventual outdoor bed, our Terra Volcánica system replaces tilling, synthetic fertilizers, and bagged amendments with mulch, biological inputs, and time. Confirm your bed site passes a basic drainage check (a 12-inch hole filled with water should drain its second fill within 4 to 6 hours), lay 4 to 5 inches of compost over a cardboard barrier, and inoculate with LABS at 1:1000 dilution at least 24 to 48 hours before transplanting. The full bed installation, drainage assessment, and ongoing maintenance calendar are documented step by step in the master garden setup walkthrough.
How to Start Stinging Nettle Seeds Successfully
Nettle seeds are tiny, light-dependent, and surprisingly forgiving once you get the temperature and moisture right. Each step below has two parts: how to do it, and why it matters biologically. Understanding the why is what turns a beginner into a confident grower.
Step 1: Time Your Sowing to Soil Temperature, Not the Calendar
How to do it: Sow nettle seed indoors 6 to 8 weeks before your last expected frost, or direct-sow outdoors once daytime soil temperatures consistently reach 60 degrees Fahrenheit at a 1-inch depth. A simple soil thermometer pushed into the bed mid-morning gives you a reliable reading. If you do not have a thermometer, wait until you see local dandelions and chickweed flowering, both of which germinate at similar soil temperatures.
Why it matters biologically: Nettle seed has a small but real cold-stratification preference. A short period of cool, moist storage (4 to 6 weeks in the refrigerator before sowing) breaks dormancy faster and improves germination by 15 to 25 percent in our trials. Once sown, the soil's microbial community has to be active for the seedling's roots to establish. Cold soil means dormant microbes, and a nettle seedling emerging into a microbially quiet bed is a seedling that struggles. Warmth wakes up the bacteria and fungi the plant will partner with.
Step 2: Surface-Sow on Living Media and Press Seeds Down Lightly
How to do it: Sprinkle nettle seed on the surface of your seed-starting mix, then gently press it into the soil with the palm of your hand or the back of a spoon. Do not bury the seed. Cover with a fine dusting of compost (1/16 inch maximum) or leave seeds fully exposed if your starting mix surface is fine and dark. Mist the surface to settle the seed.
Why it matters biologically: Nettle is a light-triggered germinator. Phytochrome receptors in the seed coat detect daylight and signal the embryo to break dormancy. Bury the seed deeper than 1/8 inch and germination drops to near zero. Pressing the seed gently into living media puts the embryo in direct contact with soil microbes that will colonize the rhizosphere from the moment the radicle emerges. Sterile media skips that handshake entirely, which is part of why commercial nettle starts often look weaker than home-grown ones.
Step 3: Keep Moisture Consistent for the Full 14 to 21 Days
How to do it: Mist the seed surface twice daily with a fine spray bottle until you see germination. Cover the tray loosely with a clear plastic dome, plastic wrap, or a piece of glass to maintain humidity, but vent it for at least 30 minutes daily to prevent fungal buildup. Bottom-water by setting trays in a shallow tray of water for 10 minutes once a day, which keeps the seed surface moist without disturbing the seeds with overhead watering.
Why it matters biologically: Seed germination is a biochemical cascade that requires steady cellular hydration. Drying out for even a single hot afternoon can kill the developing embryo just before emergence. At the same time, fungal pathogens like Pythium and Rhizoctonia thrive in stagnant, oversaturated conditions and cause damping-off. The balance you are looking for is consistent surface moisture with daily air exchange, which mimics a forest-floor microclimate where humidity stays high but the air keeps moving.
Step 4: Provide 12 to 14 Hours of Light Once Germination Starts
How to do it: The moment you see the first green sprouts, place trays under a grow light positioned 4 to 6 inches above the seedlings, set on a 12 to 14 hour daily timer. A sunny south-facing window works in a pinch but produces leggy stems. Adjust the light upward as seedlings grow.
Why it matters biologically: Nettle seedlings produce sturdy stems and dense chlorophyll only when light intensity is sufficient. Insufficient light triggers etiolation, where the plant stretches toward the light source and produces weak, pale tissue. Strong light from day one means stockier seedlings, denser chlorophyll, and the early formation of trichomes (the fine surface hairs that include nettle's signature stinging cells). Trichome formation is part of how nettle defends against herbivory, and a well-lit seedling starts that defensive chemistry early.
Step 5: Transplant Once True Leaves Reach 2 to 3 Inches
How to do it: When seedlings have at least two sets of true leaves (the second pair after the cotyledons) and are 2 to 3 inches tall, harden them off over 7 to 10 days by setting trays outdoors for progressively longer periods. Transplant into the prepared bed at 12-inch spacing, water in thoroughly, and apply a 1:500 FPJ foliar spray within 48 hours of transplanting to support the establishment phase.
Why it matters biologically: Hardening off allows the plant's leaf cuticles to thicken and its photosynthetic system to acclimate to outdoor light intensity. Skip it and you get sunscald, wilting, and transplant failure. Once in the ground, the FPJ application is more than fertilizer. It is a microbial primer that supplies plant-derived nitrogen, growth hormones, and beneficial microbes the seedling can immediately use to colonize its new rhizosphere. Within 7 to 10 days a properly transplanted nettle seedling has paired with the local AM fungi and is exchanging carbon for minerals.
Our second-year nettle stand germinated at 78 percent in spring 2024, up from 52 percent in our first attempt. The single biggest variable was a 5-week cold stratification in the refrigerator before sowing, which we did not do in Year 1. The seeds we sowed straight from the packet broke dormancy unevenly and we lost roughly half the trays to damping-off as the slow germinators rotted in the meantime.
The other lesson was light. We started nettle on a south-facing windowsill the first year, and the seedlings stretched into pale, floppy stems that snapped at the first transplant attempt. The second year we used a basic 24-watt LED grow light at 5 inches above the trays, and the seedlings came up stocky enough to handle the move with almost no losses. Two cheap fixes, double the survival rate.
Early Growth, Stress, and Resilience
The first 60 days after transplant are when nettle decides whether to stay shallow or go deep, and the gardener's job is to set the conditions and then mostly leave it alone. A common beginner mistake is to fuss the plant by overwatering, over-fertilizing, or moving it. Nettle responds best to consistent, mild stress: regular but not excessive watering, occasional thinning, and weekly biological feeding. The result is a deep root system, a thick rhizome network, and abundant leaf production by the end of the first season.
Spacing and Thinning
Space transplants 12 inches apart in a single row, or 12 inches apart in all directions in a small block. This is tighter than larger perennial spacing because nettle harvest takes the whole top growth, which keeps individual plants from crowding each other. Thin the seedlings if you direct-sowed and they came up at higher density. Crowded seedlings produce taller, weaker stems competing for light, while properly spaced seedlings produce stockier plants with more leaf mass per square foot.
The First 60 Days: Don't Fiddle
Once your seedlings are in the bed and a single FPJ foliar application has been made, your job is simple: water consistently (1 inch per week including rainfall), keep the bed mulched to retain moisture, and resist the urge to over-feed. Nettle that gets pampered in its first months produces soft, pest-prone tissue and a shallow root system. Mild moisture stress between waterings drives root depth, which is what you want for long-term resilience and medicinal mineral uptake.
Weekly FPJ Foliar Feeding
From the first true-leaf stage onward, apply fermented plant juice as a 1:500 foliar spray once per week, in the early morning or late evening when leaves are cool. This is the rhythm we use across our growing tunnels and outdoor beds. The plant-derived nitrogen and growth hormones in FPJ support biomass without forcing the soft, pest-vulnerable tissue you get from synthetic fertilizers. Stop applications once the plant initiates flower buds in its second or subsequent seasons (switch to fermented fruit juice if you are managing for flower or seed production, but for leaf harvest you can keep going through the season).
Handling Without Getting Stung
Stinging nettle's trichomes deliver a mild irritant blend of formic acid, histamine, serotonin, and acetylcholine when touched. The 30-second rule: handle nettle by grasping leaves and stems firmly from below, brushing the trichomes flat against the surface rather than letting them prick into you. Loose contact stings; firm grip generally does not. For peace of mind, use leather or thick canvas gloves and long sleeves until you build the muscle memory. Once cooked, dried, or thoroughly bruised, the sting is neutralized completely.
Fermented Plant Juice (FPJ)
Starting at $19.99
Supports vegetative growth in nettle seedlings once first true leaves appear. Apply weekly as a 1:500 foliar spray in early morning or late evening, when leaves are cool. Plant-derived nitrogen and natural growth hormones support biomass without forcing the soft, pest-prone tissue caused by synthetic fertilizers.
Shop FPJThe Terra Volcánica Regenerative Growing System
At Sacred Plant Co, we developed Terra Volcánica specifically for nutrient-dense leafy herbs like stinging nettle, plants that evolved on the fertile margins of human settlements and woodland edges. Nettle has shaped how we think about soil-as-feedback-loop. Few other plants reward biological soil management as quickly or as visibly.
Soil Biology Equals Mineral Density
Nettle's reputation as a mineral powerhouse is contingent on its soil partnerships. The iron, magnesium, calcium, and silica that make nettle a tonic herb are mobilized by the rhizosphere microbes the plant recruits. We feed those microbes with mulch, compost, and Korean Natural Farming inputs rather than feeding the plant directly with synthetic salts. The soil community handles delivery on the plant's schedule, not ours.
FPJ as Vegetative Driver, LABS as Soil Foundation
For nettle, fermented plant juice is the workhorse input from emergence through harvest. LABS (lactic acid bacteria serum) goes down once at bed installation at 1:1000 dilution and is reapplied quarterly to maintain the bacterial population that suppresses damping-off and unlocks soil minerals. Together, the two inputs replace the entire conventional fertilizer-pesticide-fungicide treadmill.
Mild Stress Builds Medicine
A nettle plant that is slightly thirsty between waterings sends roots deeper, recruits more mycorrhizal partners, and produces denser leaf chemistry than a coddled plant. Terra Volcánica embraces this rather than fighting it. Mulch retains the moisture that matters; intermittent dry intervals at the surface drive root architecture downward.
From Seed to Medicine: The Multi-Year Arc
A nettle stand becomes more productive, more medicinal, and lower-maintenance every year for the first five years, after which it largely runs itself with seasonal harvest as the main activity. This is not unique to nettle, but nettle expresses the pattern more dramatically than most herbs because its rhizome system expands so vigorously once established. Year 1 looks modest. Year 5 looks like a self-sustaining medicinal patch.
The chemistry shifts too. First-year plants have respectable mineral content but lower flavonoid density. Mature stands, growing from established root systems with deep mycorrhizal networks, produce leaf with measurably higher chlorophyll and total polyphenol content. The traditional herbalists who said "first-year nettle is for soup, fifth-year nettle is for medicine" had the soil biology figured out long before we had a name for it.
| Stand Age | Germination / Establishment | Cured Leaf Yield (per plant) | KNF Input Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|
| Year 1 | 52% (no stratification) to 78% (with stratification) | 2 to 4 oz | Weekly FPJ + LABS at planting |
| Year 3 | Stand expanding via rhizomes; minimal reseeding | 8 to 12 oz | Weekly FPJ during growth peak; quarterly LABS |
| Year 5 | Self-maintaining colony | 14 to 18 oz | Bi-weekly FPJ; quarterly LABS |
For deeper context on how soil biology drives medicinal chemistry, our overview of KNF in regenerative farming walks through the input-by-input science, and the case for regeneratively grown herbs over commercial alternatives connects the farm-level practice to what ends up in the cup.
How to Identify a Premium Harvest of Stinging Nettle
You do not need a lab to assess nettle quality. Three sensory cues, applied at harvest and again after drying, will tell you whether your batch is medicinally vigorous or merely green.
Color
Fresh harvested nettle should be a deep, saturated green, almost forest-green at the leaf center, with darker veining. Pale or yellowish leaves indicate either nutritional deficit (typically iron or magnesium) or harvest from a stressed, underfed stand. After drying, color holds: properly cured nettle stays vivid green, while poorly dried or oxidized nettle goes brown or olive. The brown is not just cosmetic. It correlates with chlorophyll degradation and reduced mineral availability.
Texture
Live nettle leaves should feel firm and slightly leathery between thumb and forefinger, with visible trichomes catching light along the leaf margins and stems. Limp, soft leaves point to either underwatering at harvest time or harvest at the wrong time of day. Dried nettle should crumble cleanly when crushed in the hand. If it powders too easily, it was over-dried or harvested too late in the season after lignification began. If it bends and refuses to crumble, it is not fully dry and will mildew in storage.
Aroma
Quality nettle has a green, mineral aroma with hints of fresh-cut grass and a faint earthy undertone. Some people describe the smell as similar to spinach with a metallic edge. A flat, hay-like smell indicates poor drying or storage. Any musty, mushroomy, or sour note signals moisture issues and the batch should be discarded.
Why Many Growers Also Choose Dried Herbs
Proper low-temperature drying preserves the dense chlorophyll and volatile compounds, confirming the batch's high medicinal value.
Even gardeners who plant nettle in spring often want medicinal-grade dried leaf well before that first patch is ready to harvest at scale. A new stand takes 90 to 100 days to a meaningful first harvest, and the highest-yield mature stands are 2 to 3 years out. The 18 to 24 month time-to-medicine gap is real, and bridging it with ethically sourced dried nettle is not a compromise; it is a parallel track.
Sacred Plant Co's bulk dried nettle is regeneratively grown using the same Terra Volcánica principles we are teaching you in this guide. The leaf is harvested at peak vegetative biomass, dried at low temperatures to preserve chlorophyll and trace minerals, and packaged in resealable kraft bags that maintain freshness. For deeper context on nettle's traditional use, history, and medicinal profile, our pillar article on the deep traditional uses of nettle leaf walks through every major herbal tradition that has worked with this plant. For preparation guidance, our step-by-step guide to brewing nettle tea covers extraction time, water temperature, and dosing.
Stinging Nettle Leaf, Bulk
Starting at $13.96
Tasting notes: deep green, mineral, faintly grassy with a metallic-spinach undertone.
Caffeine-Free
Premium dried Urtica dioica leaf, Harvested at peak vegetative biomass, low-temperature dried to preserve chlorophyll and trace minerals, packaged in resealable kraft.
Shop Nettle LeafFrequently Asked Questions
What is the hardest part of growing stinging nettle from seed?
Cold stratification. Nettle seed germinates unevenly and at low rates if you skip the 4 to 6 week refrigerator pre-treatment, and the slow germinators rot in the meantime.
Our first-year batch went straight from seed packet to seed tray, and we lost roughly half to damping-off because the seeds that broke dormancy on day 8 were sitting in moist soil for two weeks waiting for the slower germinators to catch up. The fix is simple: store seed in a sealed jar with a damp paper towel in the refrigerator for 4 to 6 weeks before sowing, then sow on warm soil with consistent moisture. Our germination rate jumped from 52 percent to 78 percent the year we adopted this. It is the single most impactful change you can make.
How long does it take stinging nettle to germinate?
Stinging nettle typically germinates in 14 to 21 days at soil temperatures of 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit, with light exposure required for breaking dormancy. Cold-stratified seed often germinates faster, with first sprouts appearing as early as day 8 to 10. If you are past 28 days with no germination, the seed was either buried too deep, kept too cool, or dried out at a critical point.
How far apart should I plant stinging nettle?
Space stinging nettle 12 inches apart in a single row or in a small block, which is tight enough to support biomass-style harvest while leaving room for healthy stems and adequate airflow.
This spacing reflects the harvest pattern (cutting whole top growth multiple times per season) and the plant's vigorous rhizome expansion. By Year 2 or 3, the original plants will have spread underground and filled in any gaps. If you are nervous about nettle's spreading habit, plant in a contained bed or a buried-rim container that limits rhizome travel to a defined area.
How do I keep stinging nettle from spreading throughout my garden?
Contain stinging nettle by either burying a 12-inch deep barrier around the bed perimeter or growing it in large containers (15 gallons or more) with the rim flush to the soil line.
Nettle spreads primarily through underground rhizomes that travel laterally just below the soil surface. A vertical barrier of plastic, metal, or hardware cloth at 12 inches deep stops 95 percent of this spread. Mowing or cutting back any escaped shoots before they flower also prevents seed dispersal. With these two strategies in place, a nettle patch stays exactly where you want it.
Can you eat or drink stinging nettle from the first year's harvest?
Yes, first-year nettle is fully usable for tea, soup, and pesto, though mature 3-year-plus stands produce leaf with measurably higher mineral and flavonoid density.
Cooking, drying, or thoroughly bruising the leaf neutralizes the sting completely. First-year leaf has respectable mineral content and is excellent for kitchen use. If you want maximum medicinal density for serious herbal preparations, harvest from established 3-year-plus stands when possible, or source dried leaf from regeneratively grown sources while your patch matures.
When is the best time to harvest stinging nettle?
Harvest stinging nettle in spring when shoots are 6 to 12 inches tall, before flowering, and again throughout the season after each cut as the plant regrows.
Pre-flowering leaf is the medicinally preferred form because flowering triggers the formation of cystoliths, gritty calcium oxalate deposits in older leaves that can irritate the urinary tract. By cutting the plant back regularly throughout spring and early summer, you keep it producing tender, pre-flowering leaf well into the season. After flowering, switch to harvesting only young shoots from regrowth.
Does stinging nettle need full sun or partial shade?
Stinging nettle thrives in partial shade to full sun, with partial shade producing larger, more tender leaves and full sun producing higher mineral density. Choose your site based on your priority. Kitchen-use harvest tends to favor partial shade for tender leaf; medicinal harvest can favor full sun for denser chemistry. Most growers find a half-day morning sun location is the ideal compromise.
Continue Your Regenerative Growing Path
Stinging nettle is a deeper teacher than its weedy reputation suggests. We started with a few square feet because customers were asking for ethically grown leaf, and the patch quietly became one of the highest-functioning corners of the farm. The years our soil tested highest on microbial activity were also the years the nettle came up earliest, stood tallest, and dried into the deepest green leaf we had ever harvested. We cannot claim direction of cause from that observation alone, but the relationship is real, observable, and reciprocal. Nettle gives you back exactly what you put into the soil, on a faster timeline than almost any other herb in the apothecary.
If you want to deepen the practice, our broader category writing connects nettle into specific wellness contexts: herbs that support healthy iron levels covers nettle's role as a mineral-rich tonic, and essential herbs for kidney health and gentle detoxification walks through nettle's traditional use as a urinary system supportive herb. For the wider farm philosophy and the soil-to-medicine thesis that connects every plant we grow, the complete Terra Volcánica system overview is the foundation document everything else in our garden writing builds on.
Closing Thoughts
Growing stinging nettle from seed is, in the end, a conversation. You provide the conditions: living soil, warmth, light, consistent moisture, and a few well-timed biological inputs. The plant provides the rest. The first year teaches you patience. The third year teaches you abundance. The fifth year teaches you that the gardener is the smaller half of the partnership, and the soil community is doing most of the actual work.
Plant the seeds. Stay out of their way. Trust the system. The leaf you harvest in three years will be denser, greener, and more medicinal than anything you could have bought from a commercial source, because it grew up in soil you built with your own hands.
This article is for educational purposes and is not medical advice. Stinging nettle is generally considered safe for most adults, but individuals who are pregnant, nursing, taking blood pressure or blood-thinning medications, or managing kidney disorders should consult a qualified healthcare practitioner before using nettle medicinally. Always positively identify any plant before consuming it.
References
- Upton, R. (Ed.). (2013). American Herbal Pharmacopoeia and Therapeutic Compendium: Stinging Nettle Aerial Parts (Urtica dioica L.). American Herbal Pharmacopoeia, Scotts Valley, CA.
- Kregiel, D., Pawlikowska, E., and Antolak, H. (2018). "Urtica spp.: Ordinary Plants with Extraordinary Properties." Molecules, 23(7): 1664.
- Higa, T. and Parr, J.F. (1994). "Beneficial and Effective Microorganisms for a Sustainable Agriculture and Environment." International Nature Farming Research Center, Atami, Japan.
- Cho, H. (2010). Korean Natural Farming: Inputs and Applications. Janong Natural Farming Institute, South Korea.
- Smith, S.E. and Read, D.J. (2008). Mycorrhizal Symbiosis, 3rd Edition. Academic Press, London. ISBN 978-0123705266.
- Brisson, V.L., Schmidt, J.E., Northen, T.R., Vogel, J.P., and Gaudin, A.C.M. (2019). "Impacts of Maize Domestication and Breeding on Rhizosphere Microbial Community Recruitment from a Nutrient Depleted Agricultural Soil." Scientific Reports, 9: 15611.
- Chrubasik, J.E., Roufogalis, B.D., Wagner, H., and Chrubasik, S. (2007). "A Comprehensive Review on Nettle Effect and Efficacy Profiles, Part I: Herba urticae." Phytomedicine, 14(6): 423-435.
